Holiday Photos- Great Shots Without Stress

Well the holidays are here and so are the relatives. Now
get that camera out and start shooting!

A few hints will help you get the best images are:

* Get close. A close up of your child's smiling face is much
more interesting than a room full of relatives and paper.

* Use your flash! Don't be afraid to use your flash. Most
cameras do a great job of regulating the flash to just the
right amount of light. Even use your flash outside if your
in the shade! It makes a difference. Flash is your friend.

* Show the love! Photographing the relationships between
people takes practice! And sometimes it just means having fun!
When you are having fun your images are better...so don't stress
just enjoy the process!

Photographs are moments in time...if you remember that
you will look at them in a new way!

Have fun...don't stress...and remember they are only pictures!

Gotta Go the sun is shinning on the ice covered trees...time to shoot!!!



Live, Laugh, Photograph!

Maryann

Family Images...Who We Are...

Family images are some of my favorite to do. Being
a mom has been the most important thing in my life.
And having great photographs to remember the special moments
has given me so much joy.

Family images do not need to be serious and stuffy. They
can be a closeup on just a face, a toe...a silly moment
or a fun surprise. They should be taken regularly by
you ...and occasionally done by someone like myself
who can give you special images that capture their souls.


When I shoot (sorry it's a photog term) a family I only
have one rule...the kid is in charge! No posing...no
primping...no saying "smile" for Maryann.


Just the child, you, me and the camera. This is not to
say that I won't be photographing them on an elaborate
set...or have images planned in my mind...it does say
that without a happy engaged child I can't get
the images that I am striving for. I will spend
the time I need to make that to happen even if we all
need a cheerio break or two to do it.

We will get the images you want...it may not be in the
first five minutes,it may be the last shot of the day...
but I will get it! And get it in a way that respects
the child and allows their little light to glow.
And when I'm done you will be shaking your head and
saying..."I don't understand how she got anything".
Then it will happen...you will see the bits and pieces
I captured. You will see the images that will make me say "wow"
and knock you out.

And as a photographer I am in the business of doing
just that!

Call me and find out how easy it is to get your
child photographed. And give me an opportunity to
"wow" you! If you do not love your images I will return
your sitting fee and you owe me nothing.

Remember...I photograph love!

Live, Laugh, Photograph!
Maryann
http://www.maryannmcfarlandphotography.com

603-582-1515

A Special Moment With Dad

Opening a Photography Business Fulltime ... A New Beginning...and an Amazing Adventure

As I sit here thinking about how my life is changing I am in awe. Who would have thought that at the age of almost 50 (your sworn to secrecy) I would be doing what I was put on this earth to do...fulltime...again! Photography and saving bits of time is my passion. It's what I think about when I get up and what keeps me up editing in the middle of the night. After 37 years of having a camera in my hand I guess I can call it my life's work.

My life has taken many twists and turns and I have learned a couple of thing along the way. The first being that you can have anything you want. There is a time in life for being everything you want to be...just not all at the same time. In my life I have been a disco queen, artsy college student, a studio photographer, mom, a wedding photographer, mentor to at-risk kids, and finally...a self employed photographer specializing in capturing love! Life is amazing! And if you want something badly enough...it will give it to you. It always has, it always will...you just have to believe.

Life is also an adventure ...and everyday a new beginning. Create your new beginning today! Find something you want to do...your passion. It doesn't have to be your life purpose...maybe it's just today's purpose. But put your heart into it, put your soul into it, be present in it and you will be amazed how fulfilling it can be.

I have enjoyed each and every part of my life and now I look forward to returning to my passion and being able to use this passion for creating images for you.

Call me and let's talk...let me use my creativity and passion to photograph your family.

Live, Laugh, Photograph!
Maryann

Photography Talk By McFarland- The Technical Side

Ok...so you can frame a good picture...maybe even a great picture! If you can not get your camera to see and record what you are trying to capture you might as well take out your crayons...it's not going to happen by accident (ok, not often).

Learning the technical side of photography is turning into a lost art. I say this because of today's digital programable cameras that will take a good shot with a child behind the camera. But to get a great shot or at least a very good one you need to know what you are doing, why you are doing it, and how to make it happen again.

This is why I have written this blog.To answer all those how and whys associated with photography. I know the info here is basic and it's intended to be...photography is my first love and I want everyone to be
able to take a picture with confidence, and enjoy it as much as I do. It's a big world and I can not photograph it all by myself!

Remember...

Live, Laugh, Photograph!

Maryann

Lesson Two - Shutter Speeds

Simply put, shutter speed is how long your lens remains open. It is this setting along with ISO and aperture that give the desired effect in photograph. While each of these settings has a purpose, it is the shutter speed that gives us the ability to stop action. By using the settings correctly you can not only stop action, but blur action as well. It’s all about using the right shutter speed to catch the photograph you are trying to create.

The information I am about to show you represents the classic way a camera has been run. I say classic because digital has allowed us to have more choices than the ones I will show you. But, if you understand the relationship between the numbers, the new choices the digital age gives us will only offer you more opportunities to get the image you want.

Shutter speeds start at a timed setting historically called “bulb” and is designated by a “B”. The bulb setting allowed you to keep the shutter speed open as long as you like. This is especially helpful for night photography or extremely low light.

From there things are set up very logically. The next setting would historically be “2”. This is ½ of a second. The one and / are implied. Next 4 which equals ¼ of a second, 8 = 1/8th , 15 = 1/15th, 30 = 1/30th, 60 = 1/60th and so on. Now if you look at these numbers you will notice that each number is related to the other numbers that surround it. 1/15 is twice as much time as 1/30th, which is twice as much time as 1/60 th of a second. This means that every time you change your shutter speed to one of it’s neighbors you are either doubling or halving your light. A change from 1/30 to 1/60th of a second means you are only letting the shutter speed open for half the time (1/30th being a longer time than 1/60th of a second). If you went the other direction and started with 1/60th and changed to 1/30th of a second you would be adding twice as much light.
So, while it might not seem logical at first, once you can accept that the numbers actually represent a part of a second it is easy to accept that there is a relationship between the numbers, and the higher the number the faster the shutter speed.

Now you may be saying…Hmmmm…doubling your light….where have I heard of that before? There is another way to double your light that we have looked at and it was ISO (or ASA for the old folks here).

There relationships between the numbers in ISO also allows you to double your light…right? 100 is half as sensitive as 200, 200 half as sensitive as 400 and so on. Now we have two ways to double the light
hitting either the film or sensor as the case may be.

But shutter speed is not really about how much light we are letting in…it’s about how long your lens is open, it’s about how we are able to stop action. A high shutter speed stops action. A setting of 1/500th (500) will allow us to take a picture that will stop action better than a shutter speed of 1/60th of a second.

Remember that we are working in parts of a second. The higher the number the better it will stop action. Of course like anything else after a certain point it doesn’t do any good to stop it better.

Ok, so how do you use this information? Well, it’s like this. First thing to do is decide what you would like your image to look like. Do you want that basketball player to stop in midair and be crisp, then you need to be shooting at a high shutter speed to stop the action. If you want to make the player blur by you would choose a lower shutter speed…more time for the lens to remain open , more time to the accept the information. More time to allow your subject to move.

While choosing a shutter speed seems intimidating at first, just remember, all you are choosing is how to stop action. That’s it.

If you look around the room you are sitting in you will see that the room is lit all the same. But in reality each section of the room is lit differently. Shadows, textures, reflectivity etc all play a part in what eye and camera see. A light meter will help get a more accurate reading, but only experience can help you use that information. Learning how to get predictable results with basic equipment is more important than having all the do dads. In fact the do-dads only get in the way. The light meter in the camera is all you need for now. Learn how to use the information it gives you!

Lesson Two - Shutter Speeds Assignments

As we have learned your shutter speed is how long your lens is open. To get a feeling for this I have a couple of things you can do to familiarize yourself with the concepts we discussed.

Our first project is to learn the sound of a shutter speed. By having an idea of what your shutter speeds sound like, you will subconsciously know when your settings are off. I want you to start with a setting of ½ of a second or 2 on the dial. This will give you an audible open and close sound with a short delay. You should be able to hear each part of the process.

Now turn your shutter speed to 1/15 of a second or 15. This will also give you an opening and closing sound but there will be less time in between. As you go up the dial you can hear the time getting shorter and the sounds becoming one sound instead of hearing each action. You don’t need to be able to actually identify each setting, just be able to give a guess of where it is. By doing this you will be able pick up if your dial has gotten moved or you forgot to reset your shutter speed after your last shot. I know this sounds like a waste of time but believe me being able to know approximately what shutter speed you are shooting without looking.

Ok, so now we know what our shutter speeds sound like…let’s practice what they can do for our pictures.

Set your camera on ISO 200, and 30 to start with the aperture set to the necessary to take the picture and expose it correctly. In daylight you will be shooting pictures of someone or something that is moving. A bike, dog, jogger etc. will be needed to help you with this. We are going to take some images that will demonstrate how the settings will give us the desired effect we want for the image. And want a subject that will move by you.

1. Choose a shutter speed of 30th of a second. Have the person run by you while you stay still and photograph them as they run by. Take a few of these images to so you can be sure you got a decent one. Do not pan (follow) the subject. Just click as they go by.

2. Choose a shutter speed of 60 and repeat the process. This should give you a sharper image with less blur.

3. Repeat with a shutter speed of 125th.

4. Repeat with a shutter speed of 500th. With each higher speed your image will get sharper and sharper. Repeat this assignment with other lighting and subject matter until you can predict the results you will get with some accuracy.

Being able to stop action and stop it the way you want is invaluable to a photographer, and will transform your photographs.

Lesson One- ISO Assignment

After reading how important ISO is to our final image, I would like to offer this assignment to drive home the point and familiarize you with the strengths and limitation of the different ISO settings.

This assignment will need to be accomplished in three parts; daylight, night, and indoors with a flash. They do not need to be accomplished on the same day, but there does need to be some record keeping done to get the full benefit.

You will need a tripod, digital camera and a stationary lens (non-zooming). The tripod will assure you do not move the camera and that all variables remain as constant as possible. The only thing we want to change here is the ISO. Put your camera on Program (fully automatic) and let the camera choose the settings. Set your camera and tripod up so you have your subject in lighting that will not change for at least 30 minutes. This will ensure you have time to get all your shots in before any changes occur. If you have sun and clouds that are not giving consistent light, you will need to do this another day. All conditions must remain the same for you to be able to see the differences from changing your ISO. All I want you to do is change the ISO. Take three pictures of one object, each with a different ISO. Let's say: 200, 400, and 1200. You may choose different combinations, the only requirement is that you use the same series in all three situations.

To ensure that you do not get camera shake, using a timer or remote would be preferred. Now take the images in order from lowest to highest. After you have done your daylight images, complete your night and flash pictures the same way. The only thing that should be changed is the ISO. Do not change your focal length of your lens, do not change your shutter speed or aperture, just the ISO. Your subject can be different in the daylight, flash, and night shots, but must remain the same within each category.

What you will find when you return to your computer to unveil your images is that each ISO has it's strengths and weaknesses and is perfect for some situations...but not all. Look at the shutter speeds and apertures it required to get the same image with the different ISOs. Think about how each of these has it's perfect use but none of these are perfect for all uses. This experiment will also give you a starting point to decide which is perfect next time you are planning an image.

Knowing your equipment, the choices you have and the results you can expect in invaluable to your success as a photographer.

I hope this helps explain ISO and how to use it to your advantage.

Live, Laugh, Photograph!
Maryann McFarland
www.maryannmcfarlandphotography.com

Lesson One - ISO

ISO started it's life almost a hundred years ago as ASA. Both acronyms stand for the same thing, the sensitivity of the film (and recently a sensor) to light. Up until the late 70's this was known as ASA. It was at this point the film industry was making huge gains in technology, Fuji was starting to be a force to dealt with, and Kodak started loosing it's control over the photographic world, that's when the standard went from an America standard to an International standard - hence the change in name.

During this time things started to change. The ratings remained consistent but what you expected out of the film changed. During the mid-part of the 20th century most photographers shot slides such as Ektachrome 25 or Kodachrome 64. These slide films gave sharp rich colors, basically no grain, and were loved by everyone. They were the industry standard, and what all films were compared to. There was a problem though. You had to be shooting in bright light to get a good image. When they worked they were fabulous, but you had better have enough light or a tripod handy because they were limited. Tri-x the black and white 400 film that was available was another industry standard and loved by many. It gave you the ability to shoot in low light situations that color film would never work in. It has become a classic and is stilled used by many purists and students today. And as someone who remembers using it and loving it, and it is what I compare my bw prints to today.

It was during this time in the late 70's and early 80's that film made huge progress. Color film went through several changes, some more successful than others, but always with the idea that all films should be rated and the ratings should be standard so anyone can pickup a film and know what type of lighting this film would work best in.

ASA or today's ISO is a sensitivity rating that represents the light requirements for shooting a photograph. Today's cameras often start at ISO 100 and go up from there. When using a film camera your ISO is determined by the film that you purchase. Using a digital camera gives you the unique opportunity to change the ISO to match your needs for that particular situation. Digital cameras allow us to do what would have been impossible just 20 years ago...choose our sensitivity to fit our needs.

As a basic idea of when to use a particular ISO I will try to narrow down the choices for you.Please remember that the higher the number the more sensitive the film/sensor is to light,and the higher the grain.

ISO Situation

100 Daylight - for lighting situations where light is plenty and subject are
fairly stationary, or with flash inside. Grain will be almost nonexistent if exposed correctly, and enlarged within normal limits.

200 Daylight for normal situations, 2x more sensative than 100, is the lowest
setting on many digital cameras, grain will be very low if exposed correctly
and enlarged within normal limits. Flash probably be necessary for indoor shots unless very well lit.

400 Daylight - 2x more sensitive than 200 allowing you to use a lower shutter speed and stop some action. Will extend the effectiveness of a flash by picking up light at a further distance than lower ISO films. Great for low light, sports,or action situations. Grain will start to be obvious if not exposed correctly.

800 Best used in low light situations. Grain be obvious if not exposed
correctly or enlarged beyond a certain point. Great for sports, low light,
and for night shots.

1600 The top ISO on most standard model digital cameras. Newer and higher priced equipment will have higher options. Used for extreme low light. Grain is to be expected in most situations.

While today's cameras will have ISO numbers between the ones I have listed, you can get an idea from this list which ISO will allow you to get the effect your desire. And how it relates to your lighting, your choice of settings (aperture, and shutter speed) your lens choice and your final image. ISO is where is all starts and is the foundation of your image. It can make or break an image and is as important as any piece of equipment you can purchase.


Remember...

Live, Laugh, Photograph!

Maryann

Photography Talk By McFarland - One Woman's Thoughts

As a photographer you have the rare opportunity to save moments in time. Moments that can be captured as they really are, or as we see them in our minds eye. When you are about to photograph a subject several things will determine how your image comes out. These include the environmental issues such as lighting, your position relative to the subject, the equipment you have handy, your ability to "see" the image, and your knowledge on how to obtain the image you want.

To me the ability to "see" the image is the clincher. If you can not "see" the image you want, all the technical knowledge in the world is not going to get you a great image. Seeing your images means knowing what you are going for before you shoot, it means listening to your inner voice and whispers of your soul and taking their advice. It means paying attention to those flashes of inspiration that fly through your brain at top notch speeds and translating them into images. Seeing is a soul thing...not a technical thing, it's gift just as being able to paint, or compose music, or make people laugh is. Being able to "see" the image means knowing what you are going for before you even pick up your camera.

While I cannot teach that, no one can, I can teach you how to take a good image. Great images require "seeing" and that is between you and the universe.

It is with the quest of shooting a good image in mind that I have started this section of my blog. With the advent of digital cameras a new challenge has emerged
in the photographic world. It is teaching the masses that photography is more than
a point and shoot event. It's a creative outlet that can be a lifetime hobby, or career, and the difference between these two is not just the ability to "see" the image, but also knowing how to make your camera sing enough to get that image ...the image you "see" captured. This takes technical knowledge and practice, practice, practice!
It takes time to understand why things are happening, what made it happen, and most importantly how to make it happen again.

This series will have the very basics of photography explained. I will show you how to use your camera manually, yes manually, so you can know the why something happened, and be able to duplicate in the future.

So let's get going, and learn the why's. Lesson One is ISO.

And as always...

Live, Laugh, Photograph!

Maryann McFarland
www.maryannmcfarlandphotography.com